Every year, we try to do one big vacation. Only one big trip because it takes time to save up enough money, but also working in corporate America you only get fixed amount of vacation time. We reserve these 5 PTO days for us, the rest of our PTO time is used for family time as both of our families are scattered throughout the United States and we try to take long weekends to visit our siblings and nieces and nephews every few months!
August 2019 we decided to use our one big trip in Alaska (again). We made our first trip to Alaska in 2017, but we decided to step it up a notch this time. WE RENTED A RV FOR ONE WEEK and drove over 1,100 miles visiting Anchorage, Denali National Park, Girdwood, and Homer.
I have to tell you, the RV (we got ours from ABC Alaska Motorhome Rentals) is the way to go, especially if you’re going from city to city. Everything you need is right there… bed, snacks, clothes, lounging area, and even a bathroom! It’s great being able to pull in to your campsite and being set up already… No putting up and taking down tents. The efficiency of RV’s are well worth the money.
We spent eight days in Alaska, three of which were in Denali National Park. Everything about Denali National Park is perfect. The views, the wildlife, the people, the experiences. Everything! It’s one of my favorite places to visit. You can choose to do adventurous activities like get a permit and back pack through the back country where you have to bury (or carry) your fecal matter, cook/eat in one area, set up your tent in another area, and bear proof everything in containers that are almost human-proof… If you’re someone who prefers to not die in the woods, like me, I have great semi-adventurous activities you must try while visiting Denali National Park that will leave you smiling and talking about for years!
1. Drive the first 15 miles of the National Park road.
When you first enter Denali National Park you’re able to drive a motor vehicle the first 15 miles until only permit vehicles or staff are allowed to drive. Don’t let this restriction fool you though, the first 15 miles are still excellent to see nature. You have beautiful views (clearly marked for optimal pictures) and great chance of seeing wildlife.
The road curves around the mountain edges showing beautiful vegetation ranging from various trees to fireweed (beautiful purple plant that got it’s name from being the first plant to grow back after a wildfire) to open meadows, and dried up river beds. I highly recommend going at or just below the speed limit while driving on the road for easy stops. Remember, there are no fences, this is where wildlife live. You never know when you’ll see something in the distance or even a few feet away from the road! Insider tip: look for other vehicles stopped on the side of the road with cameras out of the car windows. Most likely there is a moose or caribou not far!
During this drive, you also have a chance to see Denali! There is a spot with clear signage that on a clear day, you can see both peaks! On our first visit to Denali National Park in 2017 we saw the monstrous mountain at this spot. I can’t talk enough about how beautiful it is. During our most recent trip, it was cloudy and we didn’t get to see the peak. I didn’t realize how lucky we were on our first trip to catch a glimpse of the mountain because only about 38% of people who visit get to see it.
At the end of the road, there is Savage River area right before the ranger station. Pull in to Savage River area for an easy turn around outside of the park, and an outhouse if you don’t have an RV to relieve yourself from that hour drive in!
2. Hike Savage River.
Personally, I’m not a fan of hiking in nature where I know there are bears or other large mammals that can easily get me. I appreciate them from a distance, inside of a vehicle. Savage River, I was 100% content hiking. It’s in Denali National Park, but a normally “loud” area where animals probably won’t navigate towards during the day.
Savage River is fairly easy to get to, you just have to do your nature drive into the first 15 miles of Denali and it’s the last place you can go in to without needing permission. If you visit during the summer months there a bus you can take from the bus station that will drop you off! It’s a nice little hike along a river bed about a mile down and a mile back, an easy hike without having to exert too much energy. You will get to see many rock formations from glaciers, enjoy the beautiful peaks and valleys around you, and possibly see some Dall Sheep on the mountain tops in the distance.
The turn around point on the trail is a neat wooden bridge to cross the river. This is a great place to stop and take pictures. The river is flowing over rocks, there’s tall hills all around, and even some beautiful vegetation in the valleys. We ventured off past the wooden bridge, briefly around the river-bend. I’m so glad we did, despite stepping in some mud and getting a few scrapes from sticks! While on our adventure, we saw caribou foot prints, got some beautiful pictures of flowers, and even maybe some saw some wildlife in the distance (these old eyes can’t see as far as they used to)!
3. Camp at Riley Creek.
Riley Creek is the first camp ground you come to when you enter Denali National Park. It allows tents, campers, and RV’s. We’ve stayed there in both a tent and an RV with no complaints! Both of the sites were very comfortable with ample amount of “privacy”. We didn’t have rocks jabbing in our backs while sleeping in a tent and both sites had were level! You don’t realize how important level sites are until you’re not in one!
This is quite possibly the perfect campground for the semi-adventurous. It’s not far off of the main highway, so you can easily get to local restaurants, tourist center, and excursions. You can walk paths to the nearest bus center to get in further to Denali. You have both outhouses and running water bathrooms. (Surprisingly, every outhouse I was in while in Denali was very nice, cleaner than normal bathrooms!) But you also get to say you camped in the Alaska Wilderness!
4. Midnite Sun ATV Tour.
Ok, so this one is technically not in Denali National Park, it’s just on the outskirts on an old mining area in Healy because motor vehicles are not allowed in Denali to preserve nature… but trust me, you WANT TO DO THIS!
This ATV tour takes places at 9:00pm through Denali ATV Adventures. In 2.5 hours, you’ll get to watch the sun never fully set in the Alaskan mountains while climbing rocks, twisting around corners, driving through dry creek riverbed, and even zooming a straight path feeling like Mario Kart. A perfect way to enjoy the Summer Solstice!
Not a fan of the taking control and driving an ATV? That’s ok! If you’re with someone dying for more adventure, you can use a side-by-side instead of an ATV.
We did this excursion both times we were in Denali, pretty sure we would do it every time.
5. Eielson Bus Tour.
Dying to get in beyond the first 15 miles of Denali, but don’t want to venture off on a hike with potential bear encounters? You can take a tour bus in 66 miles to Eielson Visitors Center on the curvy mountain side roads! Doesn’t sound exciting at times, but this is one of the most exciting things we did! It’s an 8 hour round trip on a bus watching out for wildlife. You have a chance to see a sightseer’s paradise, the big 5 of Denali: Dall Sheep, Moose, Caribous, Bears, and Wolves!
During the trip, you and the whole bus keep an eye out for wildlife up close and in the distance. When you do, you get to yell “STOP” and the bus driver will stop for everyone to view and take pictures. The bus drivers have a pretty good eye themselves as they’re trained what to look out for and make 5 trips a week in the mountains!
Eight hours may seem like a long time, but you may a stop at a rest area about every 1-1.5 hours. Be sure to bring snacks or even a lunch to eat at Eielson Visitors Center!
Insider tip: If you don’t like heights, on the way in to the park sit on the right side of the bus and out the way out, sit on the left side of the bus.
6. White Water Rafting the Nenana River.
Wait, don’t freak out! This is a great semi-adventurous activity! I was apprehensive when we were waiting, but sooooo glad I did it! Heck, it’s suitable for kids 5 years and older!
We did the Upper Nenana Scenic Wilderness run through Raft Denali. It was a thrilling 11 mile trip with an expert guide. They provide you with dry suits, shoes, life jackets, helmets, and enough training to make you feel comfortable in participating in navigating the Nenana River.
You don’t have to worry about running in to any bears fishing for salmon in the river, as the Nenana is a glacier fed river, it’s full of soot and no fish. You may see a moose on bank or bald eagles flying, though.
This is a perfect way to experience a glacier (while we still have them), explore Alaskan nature, and a thrill without it being too adrenaline pumping. In between rapids, you even have time to bring your heart rate down with what the experts call “bath water”. By bath water, what they mean is calm water. Not warm. It’s still glacial water, people.
7. Hike the beautiful trails on Denali National Park.
You don’t have to go back packing in the back-country to get a good workout and hike the trails of Denali. For the semi-adventurous there are plenty of 2-mile(ish) trail hikes near the entrance of Denali!
We hiked Horeshoe Lake Trail. It’s exactly like it sounds. It’s about a 2 mile hike all the way down to a lake that’s shaped like a horeshoe. This trail definitely has some elevation differences (about 250 feet and it’s steep). You just have to be prepared to walk back up the oddly spaced/height stairs. For the one’s not prepared, there’s plenty of places to stop and catch your breath, acting like you’re looking at the beautiful nature around you.
We were fortunate to see some unexpected wildlife. Many types of birds and even a baby beaver.
8. Visit the Denali Sled Dogs.
Do you ever wonder how Denali is maintained during the long winter season when cars are unable to travel in? Well, i’ll tell you… SLED DOGS! Yes, they use dogs to protect the wilderness of Denali!
During the summer, the sled dog kennels are open to visitors. You can meet the dogs (even pet some), see sled dogs in training, and even watch a sled dog presentation. This is a great experience to see these dogs doing what they’re great at and get a new appreciation for what goes in to keeping Denali wild. Be sure when you visit to leave a donation to keep up with the sled dog program. You can clearly see how well they’re cared for and the respect the rangers have for the dogs.
9. Visit the shops on the Boardwalk.
What good tourist destination doesn’t have a boardwalk with shops and restaurants. Denali is no different, but it’s Denali Rainbow Village Boardwalk Mall has many unique items that you can only find in Alaska… Like moose poop pellets? This is a fun little excursion to buy souvenirs for the family and still get great views. During one visit we even found Sarah Palin pocket knives… we regret not buying those and giving them as gifts! If you happen to see those around, hook a sister up!
10. Grab a beer/meal at 49th State Brewing Company.
You don’t have to be a craft beer fanatic to enjoy 49th State Brewing Company. This is a one of a kind experience located only 8 miles from Denali National Park’s entrance. Not only does this place offer good food and great beer, it offers an experience that I have not had at any other brewery I’ve been to. When you first pull up, it looks like you’re going in to a compound. Large, pieced together fence around the area, and open fire, eclectic lawn pieces, and an party tent connected to the actual brick and mortar restaurant. You may think “WTH am I getting myself into?” while walking in… But trust me… you got yourself into something great.
The tables on the inside are very closely packed together, i’m assuming to accommodate all of the tourists looking for some good beer, or to make sure there’s enough for for all of the shit (in the most loving way) on the walls and ceiling. You will not get bored while waiting for your server and food because there’s just so much to look at all around you. And the menu! The menu had so many options for me to choose from… when I’m away on vacation, I always get something I can’t at home. When I have a chance to get fresh crab (or halibut), I do! No change here at 49th State Brewing Company.
Before you leave, you have to stop to take a look around the yard. Many knick-knacks that scream “ALASKA”. Including your chance to be the alive version of Alexander Supertramp with the bus from “Into the Wild“.
***ADDED BONUS***
Take a picture at the “Denali National Park and Preserve” sign. Yes, there may be a lot of tourist trying to get a picture at the same time, but you’re one of them. Enjoy and live in moment, creating memories to last a lifetime!
You could easily make a week (or longer) out of your trip to Denali hiking trails, doing excursions, exploring visitors center, or just sitting out at your campsite enjoying Alaskan nature. All I can say is if you ever get the chance to go to Alaska, do it!… In an RV!
I have to thank my sister-in-law for being a great travel planner. She lives in Wasilla and always does a great job creating a perfect schedule to fit my non-adventurous side and my husband’s very adventurous side. We know we’re lucky to have a family member living in an exciting state!
Married without Kids 